Welcome to my first Middle East travel blog - the al-ʾUrdunn (Jordan) الأردن edition! 🇯🇴
As with an Arabic greeting: As-salamu alaykum (Peace be upon you) ٱلسَّلَامُ عَلَيْكُمْ ✌️
# PRELUDE - WHY THE MIDDLE EAST?
My travel destinations have always been in Europe & East Asia (see my recent Korea blogs), where I'd often find myself buzzing around the Dubai terminals for connecting flights, and gazing at the striking desert-orange horizon. On one of these occasions, I stumbled upon the Arabic Mezze and discovered the wonderful world of smoky blended aubergines in Moutabel. And so the orange sand, Moutabel (& later Petra) lured me to Jordan!
Featuring our incredible group: Mai, Ela, Esther, Alex, Niamh, Nancy & Ron, and Zaid. + Guest appearance: Greece-based Emmanuel, Kostas, Adonis, and Takis.
Team-photo credit: Emmanuel - Rashid/Zaid - Esther - Zaid - Esther
📍 Itinerary: Amman > Aqaba > Wadi Rum > Petra > Madaba <> Jerash 🚌 🐾
# Day 1: ENDLESS HILLS & STAIRS IN DOWNTOWN AMMAN 🥾🐾
Before meeting my Intrepid group in the evening, I booked a walking experience and marched down several flights of stairs of what felt like endless back alleys in the crisp morning sun to the meeting point. On this short 10-minute walk, it was a pleasant surprise to hear a polite: "Welcome to Jordan" out of the blue, and see many warm smiles.
As we immersed in the panorama view on the Amman Pasha hotel's rooftop, Mohammad walked us through the highlights of this historical part of Amman. We checked out several local markets whilst sampling bread & falafel. It was a relaxing introduction to Jordan. 🐾
Morning Walking Tour in Amman, https://www.guruwalk.com/walks/39623-free-walking-tour-in-amman-jordan
With me on this walk was the Greek quartet 😆 After the morning walk, I tagged along with Emmanuel's group as we climbed up and down numerous steps to see the Citadel, back to the markets for some bargaining, and through another alley for a 3pm lunch at the popular Abu Hatem, where we also celebrated Kostas' birthday. So popular that I found myself back there 4 hours later for dinner with the Intrepid group. 🤣
Team-photo credit: Emmanuel (first 2)
My first 24 hours in Jordan concluded with just under 12km walking, 100m elevation, a must-try chewy creamy Arabic ice cream & an amazingly refreshing pint of Carakale blond ale! 🍻
Abu Hatem Grill: https://maps.app.goo.gl/KVkg1mW7joAcXwmAA Bekdash Ice Cream Downtown: https://maps.app.goo.gl/UwX3WYP3QBtPMdo66 Carakale Craft Beer: https://www.carakale.com
# Day 2: RED SEA RAVE 🛥️ TO STARRY NIGHT IN WADI RUM 🌌
Stopping by the Gulf of Aqaba, we hopped onto a glass-bottom boat to explore the tranquilly turquoise water of the Red Sea. Joining us were 2 other groups from Turkey & Jordan/ Russia, and with them an exquisite collection of Turkish and Arabic club music. 🪩 🎶
In between the tasty food, spying on marine life through the glass bottom, and impromptu Turkish dance lessons, we took a few dips in the (salty!) water & checked out the reefs (one is a deliberately sunk plane). The crew ensured I could safely enjoy the underwater scenery, despite my many failed attempts not to "salinate" the sinus. 🪸 🐠 🤿
Just after sunset, we entered the Wadi Rum desert & were welcomed by the camp's cat 🐈: Shakhbot شخبوط. He was thorough with his service, and even security-checked my tent. 😸
After stuffing ourselves with a mouth-watering dinner cooked in the traditional Bedouin underground Zarb oven, the weather (~15oC) was perfect for chilling by the fire with marshmallows, enjoying more Bedouin hospitality & admiring the magical starry night sky. ✨
Shorbat Adas (Arabic Lentil Soup) شوربة عدس Chicken Zarb (Underground Pit Slow-roasted Meat & Vegetables) زرب
Team-photo credit: Esther, Niamh
# Day 3: SHAKHBOT 🐈 OF THE MOON VALLEY 🌒
We woke up to a breath-taking morning view, even more magnificent since we arrived in pitch black the day before. What better than jeep-ing our way to a massive sand dune, on the first day in the desert, than a leg workout up that same dune. We then headed down for the much needed Arabic tea and learned about the tea serving order (with Alex as our designated tribal leader for demonstration 😂), and the meaning of the 1st to the 5th cup.
Departing the tea stop where I also got my keffiyeh styled by the chatty shopkeeper, we checked out more surreal sandstone and granite rock formations. If any of these rocks seem oddly familiar to you, look up planet Arrakis in the movie Dune (2021).
Other highlights from this morning excursion included the well-preserved Petroglyphs (rock-carving) - see if you can spot one below, and the natural desert soap Ajram گیاه اشنان that was freshly prepared by our Bedouin host Rashid & practically illustrated by our tour lead Zaid. 🫧
Team-photo credit: Rashid/Zaid
We came back to the camp for lunch, accompanied by Shakhbot of Arabia. 🐾
1x Cat-photo credit: Zaid
After a quick snooze with Shakhbot (he had plenty 💤, I had none 🤷♀️), we headed out hiking in the pleasant 19oC breeze. Afternoon agenda included Rashid's mini flute performance, little hedgehog footprints, dung beetle on the move, sampling the bitter desert melon, networking with a camel flock, and catching an astonishing sunset overlooking the valley. 🌄
Team-photo credit: Zaid/Alex
Today concluded with overall 10km of walking, a brief tune-in on Esther & Zaid's religious discussion & some slight panic over our first encounter with a faraway desert lightning. 🌩️
Breakfast: Pita bread, Hummus, Labneh (Strained Yogurt), Boiled Egg Various Types of Shay (Arabic Tea) شاي عربي - cardamon, mint, cinnamon, sage, ... Lunch: Lamb Kafta & Potato Stew, Vegetables Tray Dinner: Chicken Mansaf (Cooked Chicken in Fermented Dried Yogurt) منسف
# Day 4: THE ROSE CITY OF PETRA 🐪
This morning, some of us camel-ed our way out of the desert, with our camel lead Samhan. Between snacking on bits of grass, and being mostly oblivious to their grumpy friend who was carrying Alex, Hamdan and Mango the camels leisurely delivered me and Niamh to the destination. We then made a quick stop at the Ottoman-era Hejaz Railway. 🚂
Team-photo credit: Rashid/Zaid
By lunch time, we arrived at Wadi Musa - the Valley of Moses, home to the ancient city Petra! Strolling along the simmering rose-gold gorge Siq, Zaid talked us through the archeological, architectural & engineering highlights that were carved/ built by its ancient resident: the Nabataeans, with influences from Assyria, Egypt, and Greece. I was mesmerised by the colour palette on this 1.2km walk - mellow pastel rose-gold, mystifying dark amber, striking desert-orange, and streaky sandstone-yellow - all depending on the mood of the sun. ☀️
Team-photo credit: Esther
At the iconic rock-carved Al-Khazneh (The Treasury) was a massive crowd of tourists & Petra's current inhabitants: the Bdoul بدول. Whilst the older generation had an ancient serene air, we came across many young "Jack Sparrow" with their striking kohl-lined eyes & eccentric hair. We ended up trying the kohl (it was good!) and I left the shop with enough frankincense (aromatic resin) to turn my place into an earthly rich smoke house for months. 😶🌫️
After checking out other sites on Petra's main trail, today concluded with just under 14km of walking. If you feel this was already a lot, wait for tomorrow!
We wrapped up today with a surprised birthday cake for Zaid - a joint mission by Niamh and the restaurant owner, followed by the Arabic version of the Happy Birthday song blasting from the restaurant's speakers. In the middle of this yummy cake was fresh pieces of apple - I was so impressed! This was also the second "secret" birthday cake I've had on this trip. 😂
Buffet Lunch - Al Qantarah Restaurant: https://maps.app.goo.gl/WQ7LDTGmh1dDaaBu7 Mezza & Lamb Zarb Dinner - Old Street Restaurant: https://maps.app.goo.gl/GXZ6WXBTp5DroaQu6
Team-photo credit: Ron, Zaid/Esther
# Day 5: PETRA BACK TRAIL ⛰️ & PETRA BY NIGHT 🕯️
The back trail was my favourite! Esther, Ela, Alex & I signed up for more leg workout with Zaid, starting at Siq al-Barid (The Cold Canyon) - Little Petra. It's believed that Little Petra was meant to house visiting Silk Road traders. Centuries ago, these caravans might have met the ancient feline inhabitants, just as their descendants were welcoming us this morning. 🐾
Team-photo credit: Zaid
Departing Little Petra, we took a shuttle to the foothill before hiking up & down numerous valleys, rocky steps, and breath-taking mountain view, to Ad Deir (The Monastery). On this hike, Ela officially graduated from the Panorama-photo class & Zaid helped with styling my keffiyeh - I'm a keffiyeh fan by now, so airy & light! Other highlights include: perfectly cool dry air (~19oC), excellent company, smoky coffee on a plateau & Esther's magic selfie stick.
Team-photo credit: Alex, Esther
After an hour of Ottoman spa session which did wonders to my then stiff legs, some of us headed to the 'Petra by Night' performance. And shortly before the Siq, I lost my group. 🤣 Two seemingly endless lines of illuminating paper lanterns placed a mystical veil upon the passage through the Siq. It was an ethereal moment, as I contently wandered through the dimly lit narrow path in solitude. At the Treasury, I was quickly found! 🤣
The performance started with a dedication to peace 🇵🇸. We were introduced to the traditional Bedouin Shababa flute & Rababa one-string instrument by two local artists, one was the Rababa gentleman I had the pleasure to photograph in Little Petra this morning.
Today concluded with around 20km of walking, 300m elevation up the 1000m high mountain range, and adding the delightful mint lemonade drink to my foodie list. 🍋 🌿
Buffet Breakfast - La Maison Hotel Petra: https://maps.app.goo.gl/oEFhYS4A52tPK8Ad8 Chicken Shawarma Lunch - Nabatean Restaurant: https://maps.app.goo.gl/FEGZNeqH626WnHsYA Chicken Maqluba Dinner - Abu Elias Restaurant : https://maps.app.goo.gl/8mxQooFcmV7AB4zH7
# DAY 6: "HOW DID THE DEAD SEA BECOME DEAD?" 🌊 👻
Visiting Kerak Fortress this morning, we learned about key historical events happened here, with the fortress' involvement in the Crusade & notably Sultan Saladin. We then came across a piece of rock-carved Islamic art, abstract, but with a little twist .🐈 👀
After Kerak, we retreated to the Dead Sea for the afternoon. Apart from the extremely salty seawater that would guarantee burning sensation on any light cut, to which Alex testified 😂, our skins were so soft after floating in this brine & having a good soak (& baked) in its mud.
Arriving in Madaba, we checked out the St. George's Greek Orthodox Church and its Madaba Mosaic Map from early Byzantine era. Since Niamh had to leave by tomorrow afternoon, we stopped by the hotel's pool for drinks and more banters this evening.
Team-photo credit: Esther, Niamh
Buffet Lunch - The Dead Sea Spa Resort: https://maps.app.goo.gl/WK5xp3dWDMuvADQ3A Chicken Shawarma Dinner - Darna Snack: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vrTmGxrrZGRPQFZj6 🍺 at Salome Hotel: https://maps.app.goo.gl/KE7g9N4FXJys2QgZA
# DAY 7: THE SACRED MT. NEBO ✝️ & THE ANCIENT CITY OF JERASH 🏛️
Our destination this morning was the biblical Mount Nebo, where Moses saw the Promised Land. Across the valley in a distance is the holy Jordan River where a few days after, Nancy and Ron were baptised at, just as John the Baptist had baptised Jesus there. Next to the Memorial Church of Moses is an olive tree planted by Pope John Paul II in 2000 as a symbol of peace. I could hear Con Te Partirò (Time to say Goodbye) echoing from the gift shop just as we departed Mt. Nebo, a rather fitting theme on the last day of our trip.
After a stop at a Mosaic workshop, we headed to the ancient Greco-Roman city Jerash. Zaid gave us a city tour on the key architectures as we made our way through this massive but well-preserved site. Peaking at 24oC, this was the hottest day we experienced during our trip - time to improvise a different keffiyeh style! Other highlights at Jerash include: beautifully delicate sand art stall, upbeat local bagpipes entertainment at the South Theatre, a rocking pillar at the Temple of Artemis, and the most satisfying-looking cat. 🐈⬛
Team-photo credit: Zaid, Esther
Leaving Jerash marked the official end of our trip... After sending Niamh off, we had a couple of hours of free time before our final team dinner. As Ela and I were zig-zagging our way through Madaba for my last-minute souvenir stock-piling, a group of young girls walked past us and one of them gifted me some white flowers which smelled like jasmine. 😊 We got back with a bag full of Marouf's cardamon coffee, Jordanian beers (e.g., Carakale, Petra, Dead Sea-rious), and a small sample of Arak - an aniseed distilled Levantine spirit.
This was my first solo travel to an unfamiliar territory & it has been one of the best trips - no doubt thanks to our group! After sending Esther off and parting with everyone, I reminisced about the wonderful memories of this past week, whilst packing up for tomorrow flight. 🛫
Dose Coffee: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2qiXBnXcEmfdLwty9 Chicken Shawarma Lunch - Artemis Restaurant: https://maps.app.goo.gl/wCXzb6B96v4e92Jb9 Mezze & Mixed Grill Dinner - Bawabit Madaba: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VZrAsUHL5QiPNupP8
Team-photo credit: Esther
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